71°01′N 25°47′E

These geographical coordinates mean nothing to most people. For many others, however, they represent not only a point on a map, but first of all the ultimate aim of an inner journey. A slow and arduous approach, which leads towards the borders of the Earth and at the same time of their own limits. An adventure that requires a good deal of courage and ‘madness’. This place is called North Cape.

Of course, one might take a comfortable plane, rent a car and drive a few days, while sleeping in one of the hotels conveniently located a few kilometers away from the goal. Then mix with the many crammed tourist buses lined up to take a picture in front of the famous globe that glorifies the false story of its record. But this would shatter the whole meaning of a trip to North Cape.

Let’s take a step back.

Milan to North Cape (and back)

Nordkapp is a cliff located on the northern tip of the island of Magerøya and is erroneously considered the northernmost point of Europe. That’s because, a few kilometers away, lies Knivskjellodden, a promontory with an even greater latitude. Actually, being both points on an island, the record should be for Cape Kinarodden, which is on the mainland. But being Magerøya nowadays connected stably by an underwater tunnel, it can be regarded as one with the rest of continental Norway.

Then, if Nordkapp is not the northernmost point, why all this undeserved fame? The main reason is definitely the location, perched on a cliff accessible from a convenient parking and offering ample space for a visitor center with even bars and restaurants. Knivskjellodden and Kinarodden do not share the same luck, being located on rocky promontories reacheable only by muddy trails far from the beaten tracks.

That is the main reason that pushed us to set Knivskjellodden as the final goal of our trip to North Cape. As if 11,000 kilometers by car to drive in less than twenty days had already not been an adventure in itself. We felt the need to get away from the noisy crowds, and just live with ourselves such a special achievement.

Scandinavian vista

Our trip starts on a hot summer morning in Milan. We rapidly leave behind Italy and ride through Switzerland, Austria and Germany, before entering by ferry in Scandinavian land. From there, grinding kilometer after kilometer, we cross Denmark and Sweden until reaching Finnish Lapland. Here we really start to breathe Northern air, forests and lakes as far as the eye can see, reindeer everywhere and the crossing of the Arctic Circle. For us, lovers of the Grand North, it is like finally being at home.

We have a small window available, a single day of good weather in the midst of catastrophic meteorological forecasts. Those who have already been at North Cape know that nine times out of ten the cliff is surrounded by a thick fog that prevents the unfortunate from seeing anything. So we have to take advantage of this lucky spot at any cost.

We cover the last six hundred kilometers in a sort of trance, just seeing the road ahead of us. Norway is very different from the other Scandinavian countries, linear and monotonous. The endless expanses of trees have given way to breathtaking views, sudden fjords and winding roads. But the ultimate goal is now too close to get distracted.

So we arrive on Magerøya in the late afternoon. The wind is so strong as to be almost unbearable. We abandon the idea of mounting our tent and settle into a more comfortable cabin, the typical camping wooden house with excellent value for money.

The northernmost camping in the world

Just a few minutes to prepare backpacks and boots and we are back in the car to drive the last kilometers that separate us from the goal. Arrived at this point it seems to us a little bit silly not to go at least to have a peek at the popular tourist attraction of Nordkapp. We feel a strong emotion under the sign that announces our arrival, but this feeling quickly gives way to sadness when we realize that we’re in front of a booth similar to the the highway ones. No, definitely not what we need to see after all that efforts.

So, back into the car, and after a few minutes we are in the parking lot from where the path to Knivsjellodden starts. With us, very few other daredevils. The sun is still high in the sky, but the wind lowers the temperature a lot and makes it very difficult to walk.

Road to Knivskjellodden

The beginning of the trail is free of any problems: a long up and down on muddy ground, led by the stone cairns that indicate the route. Around us only tundra, rocks and the inevitable reindeer, including some albino ones that stand out in the barren landscape. Then, suddenly the road swerves towards the ocean and walking becomes more difficult. Something that I would not recommend to the weak of knees and ankles. Few bends below and we’re at sea level. Without even realizing it, we are wrapped in a wet and ghostly fog, which precludes any possibility of seeing the greatly coveted midnight sun.

Clouds coming from Nordkapp

We think now to be close to our goal, but it is not so. We still have to walk an endless path on slippery rocks swept by the wind and the raging waves of the Arctic Ocean. This section reveals itself quite dangerous and forces us to face it with great care to avoid being smashed on the rocks below. Cold, wind and humidity make this a very heavy walk. After almost three hours, when hope begins to fly away, we finally see it at the horizon. The stone that indicates the northernmost point of Europe is only a few hundred meters ahead from us!

Knivskjellodden

Now eager to reach it, we almost run and arrive just as the last two people present are going away. They greet us with a nod of the head, and moments later disappear from our field of vision. We are completely alone and wrapped in a cloud that leaves us only with a few meters of visibility. The thrill to have reached North Cape quickly gives way to anxiety.

Just long enough to sign the guest book and do some commemorative photos and we are already back on the trail. In our heart, we feel bitterness for not being able to see the midnight sun, but the thought of spending one night lost on this path makes us shudder. We must quickly return to the car.

We walk briskly and with a little bit of concern, but we try to keep up morale chatting about this and that, just as we’re out for a stroll in our home mountains. We must orient ourselves by heart, trying to see cairns in the thick fog. We retrace in succession the rocky section and the tiring and steep switchbacks until we return to the long up and down trail.

On our way back

And there a miracle happens. The one that makes worth it to have rode all those kilometers by car. One for which the fatigue and fear of that moments deserve to have been lived. Gradually the fog lifts and we can see in the distance Nordkapp, wrapped in cloud as if they’re a cloak. Then, suddenly, in front of us, the midnight sun appears and paints the sky in purple, also giving us a wonderful fiery moon. Something that really can’t be described by words…

Under a purple moon

With our hearts full of joy, we are going to walk the last hour and a half to reach the car. As if the midnight sun was really a gift only for us two, the mist returns and wraps around again making our sweat cold as ice. We are now exhausted by hours of walking against a relentless wind and suffer until the end, when by chance we see a glow from the street that guides us to the parking lot.

Land of the midnight sun

The adventure is over, and we also have got back in one piece. It’s almost three in the morning. We head in silence towards our campsite where we’ll consume a frugal soup as a partial reinstatement of all the efforts made. There, we’ll discover that we’re entitled to earn a certificate to remind us forever that we were among the lucky ones who have reached the real North Cape, and not the tourist trap. Every year thousands of people come to Nordkapp, but by stopping there they lose the true essence of this magical and unique place.

As the Italian explorer Francesco Negri, the first tourist in history to reach North Cape, said “it was like being at the end of the world“. And we can add to his words: “the real one, though”.

A whole lot of souvenirs